Favorite Travel in Transit Story

Since I just posted a list of transit suggestions, I thought I should follow it up with my favorite transit experiences. Favorite, in a manner of speaking. To be honest, it was one of the worst trips of my life, but now it’s one of my favorite stories to retell–so I really can’t get too bent out of shape.

My friend Hannah and I planned an epic journey from Amritsar  to Jailasmer (India). Though they look relatively close on the map, we could find no means of arriving from one to the other without going back through Delhi (aka 20+ hours on the train).  Being brave, modern women we scoffed at the mere 20 hour journey and the prices for the *2nd class AC train carriages (mistake #1). So, obviously we bought 2nd class non AC tickets (being slightly unenthusiastic about the possibility of sharing a 20 hour train ride with a goat in 3rd class). We were guaranteed that our tickets would give us one window seat and the seat right next to it during the day and sleeper seats (which are really just the day benches but the top one stops being for luggage storage and they pull down a third bench in the middle) at night.

This is probably a good time to explain that I wasn’t feeling so hot (everyone feeling the foreshadowing?), which is why I insisted on a window seat.  To be honest, I don’t even remember the train ride from Amritsar to Delhi. It passed without incident, which, for Incredible India, is quite…incredible.  In Delhi, we had a few hour wait between trains and, a craving for some familiar food in the big city. So, we head to TGI Friday’s (mistake #2).  We finish lunch and head back to the train station.

Here, ladies & gentlemen is where the real fun begins.

We start by trying to locate our carriage B3.  I assumed that B3 would follow B1 and B2–but you know what they say about assumptions. There I am huffing and puffing along the massive train line with my 40 lb backpack, only to discover that B3 is on the other end of the platform from B2. Obviously.

Finding the correct carriage, we board and look hopefully towards our respective seats (window plus one), but a large Indian family had already taken up residence. Surely, there was some confusion. We wander over there and politely suggest that they’ve made a mistake.

After 10 minutes of Indian head wobbling and laughing, I realize the large sari-clad lady sitting by my window is not going anywhere. At this point, I’m feeling down right terrible. The Delhi pollution and heat did nothing to help my stomach and queasiness–not to mention the sprint through the train station looking for stupid B3. The train starts to get more and more packed and my claustrophobia (which runs much lower than anyone else in my family, but still makes me panic when I can’t see an escape route or feel fresh air) was starting to boil.

I’m near to tears trying to tell the head-wobbling family and the man who was pretending to be a train official that I will begin puking any minute and it would really be better for everyone if I sit by the window, but nothing seems to be getting through there. My frustration continues to unravel and Hannah, bless her, was locked in an argument with Jabba-the-Seat Stealer to get me some air (and a launching pad).

Alas, a real train official comes by. I’m basically crying while trying to explain the predicament (ah, the frustrations and joys of traveling in a world far from home) and Hannah is also loudly telling our story to Mr. Official.  We expect him to kick the perpetrators out of our seats and claim a loud victory. Instead he looks at us, looks at them and says “follow me”. As luck would have it, he moved us up to the 2nd class AC tickets (you know, the ones we just didn’t need to buy…since we’re savvy traveler types).

The difference between the two types of cars is astounding–like the difference between New York City and Russellville, Arkansas. We had long padded sleeper seats (one each) and no one was there to challenge our dominion over said seats. The inside was 70x less crowded, less noisy and a million times cleaner. In other words, a perfect microcosm of the extreme disparities of wealth and over-population in India.  As a tribute to my impatience or perhaps karmic retribution, I spent the majority of the train ride dashing back and forth between my bed and the toilet (Delhi-Belly, coming out of both ends).

Ah, but we arrived. In one piece. And Jailasmer is one of my favorite travel destinations. Oh India–it truly is incredible, in every sense of the world.

*Train tickets in India are sold by class with significant jumps in price between each level. They are: first, second AC, second non AC, and third–oh and roof seating which is always free, but never guaranteed.

Quick Tip # 4: Special Diet

A lot of people (still) marvel at the ability of a vegetarian to survive in the US, so I’m sure more people still wonder how to be a vegetarian who travels. I won’t lie, in some places it’s easier than others.   While many Americans still have trouble understanding why someone would choose to be a vegetarian, in many places in the world the concept of “vegetarianism” just doesn’t exist, like in Bolivia or Rwanda. In other places, particularly where there is a strong Buddhist influence or in a major metropolitan area, you will find vegetarian cuisine delightful, like in India or Thailand.

The best advice I can give is to learn how to say vegetarian (insert your dietary preference here) in the local language on day one. You don’t want to have a miserable time explaining yourself and still not get anywhere with a local chef. In Thailand, the word is said “day” (no idea how to spell it) and people were very receptive to my order–even asking if egg was okay!

Where a simple word doesn’t suffice to explain your dietary need, do your best. If you’re not on a restricted diet for a dire health condition, consider relaxing it in favor of a more easy-going trip.  For instance at home I’m a strict vegetarian (no food-meat contact, no chicken broth, no fish sauce, no gelatin). While I travel, I have to let some of that go and stick to focusing on large chunks of meat/fish not being in my food.

Cambodia doesn’t seem as veggie-friendly as Thailand, so I will have to wait and see how I will need to adjust to fit my life in Battambang and in rural Samlaut.

Happy eating!

What to do in Bangkok

I’d heard a lot of mixed reviews of the city before I came and to be honest I was ridiculously nervous. People described it with the same frantic rhythm and unyielding chaos as Delhi. I loathe Delhi to the core. Maybe it’s what Arundhati Roy in the God of Small Things describes as “Scurrying hurrying buying luggage trundling porter paying children shitting people spitting coming going begging bargaining reservation checking…” but my experiences in the city were pretty rough.

Fortunately, Bangkok did not remind me of Delhi in the least. I loved my visit here, the people I met, the places I went and the food I ate. It’s not for everyone though.  Below I give a rundown of who will probably like Bangkok and what you should do if you come for a visit.

 

Will I like Bangkok?

Bangkok is loud and chaotic, but for those who like city adventures, it has a world of mysteries to uncover.  I loved it and definitely want to go back. Thai people were incredibly friendly and helpful which makes all of the difference to me. People try to understand your broken thai with patience and then confirm with you in English! That being said, it’s not for everyone. Bangkok is easy to make what you want of it. Especially if you have money. But remember to get of the beaten trail a bit and see what you can find. Check out my recommendations for who will thrive in Bangkok!

Go if you… are young (at heart), are a vegetarian, are a fashionista (Bangkok is one of the fashion capitals of the world), are gay/lesbian/transgendered, like a city that never sleeps, like market-shopping and bargaining, looking for a party

Don’t go if you … are easily overwhelmed by chaos, don’t like big cities, have limited mobility (the city is definitely not wheelchair or scooter friendly), don’t like mixing with local people, can’t handle the heat (it was the most humidity I’ve ever experienced–including my trip to the Amazon basin)

 

I’m on my way, what do I…

Whether you’ve been dreaming of going or not, you’re on your way to Bangkok. Here are some must-see’s during your stay! If you’re in the “go if you…” category, I would try to budget at least 3 days in the city.

Do:  Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Pratunum market (whole sale shopping-go with friends!), Chatuchak market (weekends only), RCA (bar and club area), get a massage, Sky Bar (as featured in Hangover II), eat street food and ride as many forms of public transit as possible (tuk tuk, mototaxi, regular taxi, BTS, boat)

Eat: Thai food. It is extraordinarily delicious and super cheap. There is also a ton of other Asian cuisine + you can find all of your Western favorites.

Stay: Lub’d might be one of the top 3 hostels I’ve ever stayed at. It’s not on the main backpackers drag, but it’s super accessible on public transit and fairly central.  The staff that works there is mostly Thai and they’re very friendly and eager to help. 5 stars.

Get Around: If you’re staying close to the BTS (sky train), it’s fast, cheap, modern and amazingly efficient. But taxis, tuk tuks and mototaxis abound in the city and you never have to wander far to find one to take you to your destination. One of my favorite trips was on the boat after the Grand Palace and Wat Pho tour. Take the local boat! It was about $.5o for a 20 minute trip down the river to  connect to the nearest BTS station.

Happy Trails in Bangkok!