Quick Tip # 4: Special Diet

A lot of people (still) marvel at the ability of a vegetarian to survive in the US, so I’m sure more people still wonder how to be a vegetarian who travels. I won’t lie, in some places it’s easier than others.   While many Americans still have trouble understanding why someone would choose to be a vegetarian, in many places in the world the concept of “vegetarianism” just doesn’t exist, like in Bolivia or Rwanda. In other places, particularly where there is a strong Buddhist influence or in a major metropolitan area, you will find vegetarian cuisine delightful, like in India or Thailand.

The best advice I can give is to learn how to say vegetarian (insert your dietary preference here) in the local language on day one. You don’t want to have a miserable time explaining yourself and still not get anywhere with a local chef. In Thailand, the word is said “day” (no idea how to spell it) and people were very receptive to my order–even asking if egg was okay!

Where a simple word doesn’t suffice to explain your dietary need, do your best. If you’re not on a restricted diet for a dire health condition, consider relaxing it in favor of a more easy-going trip.  For instance at home I’m a strict vegetarian (no food-meat contact, no chicken broth, no fish sauce, no gelatin). While I travel, I have to let some of that go and stick to focusing on large chunks of meat/fish not being in my food.

Cambodia doesn’t seem as veggie-friendly as Thailand, so I will have to wait and see how I will need to adjust to fit my life in Battambang and in rural Samlaut.

Happy eating!

What to do in Bangkok

I’d heard a lot of mixed reviews of the city before I came and to be honest I was ridiculously nervous. People described it with the same frantic rhythm and unyielding chaos as Delhi. I loathe Delhi to the core. Maybe it’s what Arundhati Roy in the God of Small Things describes as “Scurrying hurrying buying luggage trundling porter paying children shitting people spitting coming going begging bargaining reservation checking…” but my experiences in the city were pretty rough.

Fortunately, Bangkok did not remind me of Delhi in the least. I loved my visit here, the people I met, the places I went and the food I ate. It’s not for everyone though.  Below I give a rundown of who will probably like Bangkok and what you should do if you come for a visit.

 

Will I like Bangkok?

Bangkok is loud and chaotic, but for those who like city adventures, it has a world of mysteries to uncover.  I loved it and definitely want to go back. Thai people were incredibly friendly and helpful which makes all of the difference to me. People try to understand your broken thai with patience and then confirm with you in English! That being said, it’s not for everyone. Bangkok is easy to make what you want of it. Especially if you have money. But remember to get of the beaten trail a bit and see what you can find. Check out my recommendations for who will thrive in Bangkok!

Go if you… are young (at heart), are a vegetarian, are a fashionista (Bangkok is one of the fashion capitals of the world), are gay/lesbian/transgendered, like a city that never sleeps, like market-shopping and bargaining, looking for a party

Don’t go if you … are easily overwhelmed by chaos, don’t like big cities, have limited mobility (the city is definitely not wheelchair or scooter friendly), don’t like mixing with local people, can’t handle the heat (it was the most humidity I’ve ever experienced–including my trip to the Amazon basin)

 

I’m on my way, what do I…

Whether you’ve been dreaming of going or not, you’re on your way to Bangkok. Here are some must-see’s during your stay! If you’re in the “go if you…” category, I would try to budget at least 3 days in the city.

Do:  Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Pratunum market (whole sale shopping-go with friends!), Chatuchak market (weekends only), RCA (bar and club area), get a massage, Sky Bar (as featured in Hangover II), eat street food and ride as many forms of public transit as possible (tuk tuk, mototaxi, regular taxi, BTS, boat)

Eat: Thai food. It is extraordinarily delicious and super cheap. There is also a ton of other Asian cuisine + you can find all of your Western favorites.

Stay: Lub’d might be one of the top 3 hostels I’ve ever stayed at. It’s not on the main backpackers drag, but it’s super accessible on public transit and fairly central.  The staff that works there is mostly Thai and they’re very friendly and eager to help. 5 stars.

Get Around: If you’re staying close to the BTS (sky train), it’s fast, cheap, modern and amazingly efficient. But taxis, tuk tuks and mototaxis abound in the city and you never have to wander far to find one to take you to your destination. One of my favorite trips was on the boat after the Grand Palace and Wat Pho tour. Take the local boat! It was about $.5o for a 20 minute trip down the river to  connect to the nearest BTS station.

Happy Trails in Bangkok!

 

Bangkok Day 2 & 3

Day 2

Was pretty low key. I woke up and wandered around the neighborhood near my hostel (Silom) and then I decided to venture to a market on my own–Pratunum. It’s a whole sale market with hundreds and hundreds of little shops. It’s based around a very fundamental principle used widely in America: the more you buy, the more you save.  They have tons of stuff to suit your every clothing and accessory need. Unfortunately, there are only about 3 mirrors in the whole area and they won’t let you try anything on.  For your average Thai woman (5′ tall, 100 lbs and size 0), this is fine. I’m sure whatever you put on will fit with no trouble.  For your average any other kind of woman, this system doesn’t work. So I left without buying anything except for a few accessories. I was also extremely hot (humidity has got to be around 100% here) and after several hours in the market, you start to feel jostled to your core. I was starting to remember my feeling after living in Sao Paulo, Brazil for a few months. As much as I loved Brazil, every activity of the day required 10x more energy than I had ever given to that same task. It’s the size of the city (11m in Bangkok and 23m in Sao Paulo), the hustle and bustle, the unique rhythm (which remains a mystery until you stay somewhere for a good amount of time) and the language barrier that really makes ordinary tasks into accomplishments.  I love city life, but this is definitely one of the more difficult (but rewarding) parts of visiting and living in megacities.

I also hadn’t slept well the night before and the time difference was still killing me. So I went back, had a late lunch (at a yummy Indian cafe down the corner) and came back to the hostel. I chatted with some of the other travelers, watched a  movie with a group in the DVD room and went to bed before midnight.

Day 3

The day before I had arranged with a fellow American traveler from Chicago to visit the Grand Palace and Wat Pho together. I woke up with rain pounding on the roof, but you can’t let a little thing like that stop you. So after a brief panic attack involving my debit card not working in any of the ATMs, we were off with a Dutch guy from our hostel.  We took a taxi there (total cost~$2.50) and arrived at the Grand Palace. Immediately we were met by a man who told us, “Sorry, the palace is closing for a special holiday. You don’t have time to go.” As he’s halfway through his speech in explaining to us a variety of other options we could try, I realize he’s full of it.  He’s actually just trying to get us to pay him money. It was a close call though, I was almost convinced. I tell the other guys in a half whisper that we should go confirm this story for ourselves. Low and behold, the palace was open. Success.

It was breathtaking. Even in the half rainy gray day, I was amazed by the colors, the details, the intricate artwork and the excitement of it all. (see a few photos below, more to come soon on Flickr)

Next we went to Wat Pho or The Temple of the Reclining Buddha (again see photos). You’ll never guess, though, it was also “closed”. On our persistent and determined walked towards the temple (only about a 20 minute walk from the Grand Palace), we were told no less than 3 times that everything was closed and we had to go somewhere else. Having learned the first time around, we decided to investigate. Again, it was open. We took a boat down the Chao Phraya river to connect back to the skytrain (BTS) that runs by the hostel.  I ended the evening with some yummy thai street food and a few beers.

Today I’m headed to the weekend market and Chinatown (didn’t make it yesterday). Last day in Bangkok! Gotta make it count!

Quick Tip #3: Packing your daypack (city/urban)

You’re about ready to set off for a day of exploring, but you’re not exactly sure what you will you need.  Here’s what I’m putting in my bag today for my trip to Bangkok’s famous temples (Wat Pho, Wat Arun), the Grand Palace and Chinatown).

Wearing: I’m wearing a mid-calf length skirt and a t-shirt with a pair of closed toed flats (temples have wardrobe requirements, be sure to check out where you’re going to see if you need special attire for your preferred attractions)

The bag: It’s a deep bag that crosses over the shoulder. It doesn’t close (which I don’t usually recommend, since people get handsy with open bags), but it’s deep enough and fits close enough to my body that there is no opening in the top unless you physically pull it apart.

1. sunscreen

2. a hat

3. water (can buy more along the way…)

4. chapstick

5. money and one credit card

6. student ID (you never know where ISIC discounts apply)

7. camera

8. Carabiner

9. sunglasses

10. a pair of flip flops (when I get tired of stupid closed toed shoes)

11. A small notebook (size of my hand)–you never know when you need to jot contact details or an address down

12. my compressible raincoat (the clouds outside are looking awfully threatening)

13. hand cleanser

14. city map

15. a snack (to prevent hanger*)

Things you may consider adding [ladies]: feminine products, a wrap or shawl (particularly if you going to still be out at night), hair ties

Things you may consider adding [all]: copy of your passport, tissues, swimsuit (depending on the day), guidebook (it’s usually bulky and heavy though. If you’re going to a major tourist area, you probably don’t need it. Everyone else will have one and you can always ask to have a look–plus it’s a good way to meet people!)

Remember, you’re in a city! If you don’t bring it, you can probably find it along the way.

Happy Day-Wandering!

*hanger= hunger + anger. I’m the worst offender of hanger. So I always have a snack!

Bangkok Day 1

Day 1:

Attempt to navigate my way from the airport hotel to my hostel in the city. Stubborn travelers don’t need things like “taxis”, we take public transportation and blend in with the locals–especially with our giant backpacks and long, curly redhair.

After getting lost a few times and huffing around with my overstuffed bags, I manage to make it from A to B. It’s a jungle out there. The rainy season is in full swing it’s 90 degrees Fahrenheit and you can practically swim in the air.

I arrive at the hostel (sweaty as ever) and immediately meet two friendly girls– one from the US and the other from the UK. They’re the two you always hope to meet when you’re traveling by yourself: one who’s lived here before and knows the scoop and the other who knows everyone in the hostel already. Both are fun and chatty. Instant friends.

We go to lunch and I’m shown to a place with one-hour foot massages, which I thoroughly enjoy.  Then a group at the hostel decides they want to go to this amusement park meets carnival type thing. So we pile into 4 different taxis (a good mix of thais and foreigners) and off we go! But…it’s rainy season, and while we’re stuck in infamous Bangkok traffic, it starts to pour and continues to pour. So we go to this thai food court style restaurant instead and then go to club/bar until 1:30 or so. Considering the twelve-hour time difference, I faired quite well for my first night in Bangkok.

Off to Chinatown now and to see what other adventures I can find!

Tokyo + Bangkok Arrival

Maybe it’s just me, but when I think Tokyo I imagine an uber-modern, Jetsons-esque lifestyle,–complete with private jetpacks and buildings made of shiny, white recycled plastic. I naturally assumed that the Narita-Tokyo airport would conform to this stereotype where Lost in Translation meets Anime meets 60s mod. Unfortunately, no such airport exists.  I can’t speak for the city itself (may try to stop over on the way back), but the airport was just like any other airport. *sigh*

Here are a few photos to share from the 5 hour layover.

In other news, I’ve arrived in Bangkok. It was a seamless arrival–bags arrived ok, flights left on time, no hassle, no surprise airport “fees” (bribes), and my airport pick up was exactly where they said they would be, when they said they would be there. Incredible.  Tomorrow the adventures begin…stay tuned.

And I’m off!

So tomorrow morning I head to Bangkok.

In effort to make this arrival to Asia less hectic than my horribly unsuccessful arrival to Delhi (also late at night), I’ve made the following adjustments:

1. Booked a single room close the airport that includes a one-way hotel transfer (Queen’s Garden Resort). The hotel and the transfer service both have ratings and user comments on a variety of sites, so it seems to check out. I will make the trek into the city the next morning during daylight after a sound night’s sleep!

2. Booked a dorm bed in a hostel in a neighborhood near the train (the same one that runs by the airport). In Delhi, I had a hard time meeting people because the hostel I stayed in only had private rooms and didn’t have good common space for everyone to chat. This hostel seems like a much better fit–Lub’d

I’m hoping these adjustments to my travels will make a smoother transition to Thailand than I had to India. Of course, Incredible India has no match in terms of confusion and chaos…

A useful map from Wikitravel!

Post any travel recommendations here!