Quick Tip #7: Learn some of the local language

No matter how short your visit, learning some of the local language and practicing it with residents will go a long way (note: may not exactly apply to Parisians–exercise caution avec la france).

Make it a goal to learn 5-10 words and phrases including “hello”, “how are you”, “goodbye” and “thank you”. Something I always find useful is learning numbers.

Though my Khmer will definitely not mature past the basics this summer, whenever I speak more than “thank you” , Cambodians light up. It’s usually followed by a round of laughter where everyone comes an stares at the barang speaking strange Khmer and then a rush of questions in Khmer.  Unfortunately, this onslaught of Khmer quickly fills everyone in on the actual level of my comprehension (somewhere between vague and non-existent).

Nevertheless, the prices seem to fall and the smiles stretch for miles. Like last weekend while visiting Siem Reap (home to Angkor Wat), I bargained a hammock down from $6 to $2.50 and the woman threw off the last .50 cents because she liked my Khmer numbers!

moi.bi.by.boon.praum.

It’s such a small gesture and it goes so far.

Quick Tip #6: Forms of Transport

Getting around in Cambodia is fairly easy–in the sense that you have 25 options and you can arrange almost any form of transport to take you anywhere you want (especially if you’re willing to pay). Caution: patience required. On any type of shared transport (shared taxi, minibus, or bus) you will undoubtedly make unexpected and prolonged stops. In other words, in the land of rubber time, you should forget the “exact time” they told you and expect to arrive at “some point”. If you’ve traveled in Latin America, Africa or other parts of Asia, it’s the same or… same, same but different.

So armed with courage, a little faith in humanity and a lot of patience, you should be able to navigate your way through big cities, the countryside and across national borders without too many problems.

Inner city transit usually happens on foot, bike, moto, taxis, buses, or–where lucky–the metro/train. But, depending on where you are in the world, don’t be afraid to hop on a tuk tuk, a cycle-rickshaw, or really anything with wheels/hooves. Always be sure to negotiate a price first and make sure your driver really does know your final destination. Sometimes drivers will cut a deal with you on the price if you agree to go in and look at their friend’s shop. They get a commission for just bringing you by. It’s harmless and sometimes you can even find good stuff.  If you’re in a hurry though, make it clear that there are no extra stops.

Transit between cities exists in just a many forms: private and shared taxis (very common in Cambodia), minibuses, large buses, trains, hiking/treking, and boats–to name a few. Most of them will depend on your time and travel preferences.  ALWAYS bring snacks and toilet paper–10 hours will quickly turn into 15 or 20 for thousands of inexplicable reasons.

Overnight bus tip: In some buses you will get the option to try sleeper carriages (pass if you’re claustrophobic, think overhead bins on the plane but with sliding doors) and bed or semi-bed recliners (cama and semi-cama in my beloved South America).  Of the three, I usually choose the semi-bed (for long bus rides it’s a million times better than just the regular seats), because the price difference to full bed isn’t worth it for me.

Just remember, emergency care is not always easy to access and in many places it doesn’t exist. So, have fun, try new adventures but use good sense. Sometimes it’s worth an extra $1 to bump up your transit plans.

Wherever you go and however you chose to get there, remember to tread lightly. The path you’re taking is only around because those who came before you took care (or, at least, didn’t destroy it). The planet is hovering over a great, dark abyss right now, so let’s try not to kick it over the edge. There are ways to enjoy travel and leave plenty behind for future generations to enjoy too.

I’ll post soon on green travel tips, but in the mean time..check out these sites:

Responsible Travel

Travel Green

Rustic Pathways (my roommate’s former employer)

Quick Tip #5: What to do when you look different than everyone else

I am the world’s best tribute to the recessive gene. Okay, so there’s been no official competition, but I’m fairly confident in my chances at the title should the opportunity present itself.  I have bright curly redhair, blue eyes, pale skin and a zillion freckles. This particular genetic combination is, biologically speaking, rarer than your chances of being struck by lighting or eaten by a shark. It’s rare enough in the West (with redheads making up about 4% of the population in Europe, Australia and the US), but virtually non-existent in the rest of the world.

Thus, “blending in” has never really been a successful travel strategy for me (except for my 2.5 month stint in Northern Ireland). Kids in the US think my freckles are strange enough to point and ask questions, in many places my skin and hair will be rubbed, prodded and the subject of general laughter, ridicule and other kinds of conversation. It’s typically good-natured, but it’s still hard to not let it get to you.

A red flag waving in the wind

Here are some strategies I’ve come up with to try to deal with the extra (often unwanted) attention:

1. Keep your cool. I’m not particularly fond of my freckles, but I’ve come to accept them as part of the redhead package (which I love). I know the first time seeing someone with very pale skin covered in a mass of brown dots must be strange. People usually want to understand your differences and see how you are similar, not tease or belittle you. So, let them poke a little and ask questions. Keep your smile on and try to joke about it, rather than get frustrated and angry with them.  Besides, I don’t want to give any other culture fodder for the redheads are bad tempered stereotype.

2. Know your audience. In Latin America the attention is usually benign and I’m seen as exotic rather than diseased. In India, women and men dye their hair red for luck and to show youthfulness. In Rwanda, red hair is associated with albinos and vitamin A deficiency–signs of sickness and bad luck. Knowing those little things about how my stranger-than-usual gringo/mzungu/barang appearance affects local people when they see me, helps me to manage the situation a little better.

3. Try to blend in where possible. Though physically I may stick out like a sore thumb, I typically try to adapt my dress to fit in a little better. Covering up whatever seems necessary (including sometimes my hair, i.e.:  in a temple or conservative muslim area) and trying not to make my foreign-ness any more obvious.

4. Remember you are, in fact, a foreigner. The well-traveled will often tell you that the most successful moments of their travels have been the times where they felt treated like locals. Received local prices, knew how to order their favorite local dish in the local language, or made a joke that traveled across the great cultural divide. You get the idea. But, it’s important not to take yourself too seriously. You are a foreigner (no matter how genuine your interest in the location) and you will probably always be one.

Enjoy these little moments. They’re stuff that makes travel exciting and keeps you on your toes…however tired your toes might already be.

Quick Tip # 4: Special Diet

A lot of people (still) marvel at the ability of a vegetarian to survive in the US, so I’m sure more people still wonder how to be a vegetarian who travels. I won’t lie, in some places it’s easier than others.   While many Americans still have trouble understanding why someone would choose to be a vegetarian, in many places in the world the concept of “vegetarianism” just doesn’t exist, like in Bolivia or Rwanda. In other places, particularly where there is a strong Buddhist influence or in a major metropolitan area, you will find vegetarian cuisine delightful, like in India or Thailand.

The best advice I can give is to learn how to say vegetarian (insert your dietary preference here) in the local language on day one. You don’t want to have a miserable time explaining yourself and still not get anywhere with a local chef. In Thailand, the word is said “day” (no idea how to spell it) and people were very receptive to my order–even asking if egg was okay!

Where a simple word doesn’t suffice to explain your dietary need, do your best. If you’re not on a restricted diet for a dire health condition, consider relaxing it in favor of a more easy-going trip.  For instance at home I’m a strict vegetarian (no food-meat contact, no chicken broth, no fish sauce, no gelatin). While I travel, I have to let some of that go and stick to focusing on large chunks of meat/fish not being in my food.

Cambodia doesn’t seem as veggie-friendly as Thailand, so I will have to wait and see how I will need to adjust to fit my life in Battambang and in rural Samlaut.

Happy eating!

Quick Tip #3: Packing your daypack (city/urban)

You’re about ready to set off for a day of exploring, but you’re not exactly sure what you will you need.  Here’s what I’m putting in my bag today for my trip to Bangkok’s famous temples (Wat Pho, Wat Arun), the Grand Palace and Chinatown).

Wearing: I’m wearing a mid-calf length skirt and a t-shirt with a pair of closed toed flats (temples have wardrobe requirements, be sure to check out where you’re going to see if you need special attire for your preferred attractions)

The bag: It’s a deep bag that crosses over the shoulder. It doesn’t close (which I don’t usually recommend, since people get handsy with open bags), but it’s deep enough and fits close enough to my body that there is no opening in the top unless you physically pull it apart.

1. sunscreen

2. a hat

3. water (can buy more along the way…)

4. chapstick

5. money and one credit card

6. student ID (you never know where ISIC discounts apply)

7. camera

8. Carabiner

9. sunglasses

10. a pair of flip flops (when I get tired of stupid closed toed shoes)

11. A small notebook (size of my hand)–you never know when you need to jot contact details or an address down

12. my compressible raincoat (the clouds outside are looking awfully threatening)

13. hand cleanser

14. city map

15. a snack (to prevent hanger*)

Things you may consider adding [ladies]: feminine products, a wrap or shawl (particularly if you going to still be out at night), hair ties

Things you may consider adding [all]: copy of your passport, tissues, swimsuit (depending on the day), guidebook (it’s usually bulky and heavy though. If you’re going to a major tourist area, you probably don’t need it. Everyone else will have one and you can always ask to have a look–plus it’s a good way to meet people!)

Remember, you’re in a city! If you don’t bring it, you can probably find it along the way.

Happy Day-Wandering!

*hanger= hunger + anger. I’m the worst offender of hanger. So I always have a snack!

Quick Tip #2: The Art of Bartering

Special price, my friend, very special price for you.

Ah, the magical words signaling a long round of bartering to come over that very special tapestry that looks almost like, but not precisely, 10,000 other tapestries in the tourist-pit of a market you’re wondering through.  You’re a savvy traveler; you’ve pre-shopped the market and know that the range of prices for this particular good (if not, do it first) and you’ve also been around long enough to know that in spite of the large smile and honest eyes of the seller, this special price is at least 20% higher than it needs to be.

Bartering is a delicate process. Above all else, you should remember that you as a tourist have more money to spend on your vacation than this person will probably make in a year. Also, the seller is usually a middle man of sorts between the wealthy merchant (who assigns a threshold price for the goods) and you, the tourist. So the living of the seller (and his family) is based almost entirely on those couple of extra dollars he can add to your purchase. It doesn’t mean this should elicit sympathy or pity, but it is important to remember as the “I will pay the local price” self righteousness ignites.

So, what do you do?

1. Scope out the market for your good and try to get a feel for what people are charging.

2. Engage in a few preliminary bartering sessions to see how low you can get someone to go.

3. Laugh (jovially) at the price asked and cut it in half. Be prepared to pay up to 75% of the initial price.

4. Rule of thumb: Don’t get too upset about it. You will always pay whatever something is worth to you. If you really want it, buy it.

5. After purchasing DO NOT continue price comparing the item. It will only add to your frustrations.  Let it go.

Now, go forth, rule the market! Post your favorite barter moment.

Happy Shopping!

Quick tip #1: Always take the toilet paper!

If you’re staying somewhere that gives you toilet paper, take it all. You’ve paid for it and you’ll need it.

Toilet paper is an under-appreciated commodity in the West, but when you’re traveling you never know when you will need it and when you won’t have access to it. So, grab the roll, take out the middle brown part and stash it anywhere you have open space.

Happy Wiping.